Day 72: The Hunt for Sopa de Azteca

2/20

Food is stunning in San Miguel. Hunting has never been easier, especially when my hunt has been for the best Sopa de Azteca. Aztec soup is made with a rich and zesty tomato broth. Strips of crisp tortillas swim in the bowl with cubes of avocado, crumbles of queso fresco, diced onion, cilantro, and smoky dried chilies. Everybody makes it a little different, but those are the basic elements. And its dirt cheap for a huge bowl, anywhere from 30 to 60 pesos depending on how fancy the kitchen.

 Pesos are nearly 13 to 1 right now. It’s amazing to eat dinner out for under $5. I spend more than that at home on fuel to drive down to the squid dock or to my oyster beach and back. I’m going to be so damn lazy and spoiled when it is time to go back to beaches to fend for myself again.

For breakfast this morning my hostess made chilliquies rojo with frijoles (beans). There are beans every morning, no matter what. Chillliquies are a special treat. Crips triangles of fried corn tortillas swimming in a tomato or tomatillo salsa, topped with queso fresco and crema. It has been easy to avoid meat during this trip, but it’s difficult to avoid dairy products. I admit that I haven’t tried very hard. Foregoing Elvia’s cooking is a punishment I can’t endure.